Filming surfing drives me absolutely insane. Especially when La Piste is firing.
Unfortunately the week prior I buckled my back.
Hitting the water from a terrifying height, you wouldn’t be surprised that an injury took place.
Fortunately for my friends i was left filming on the dunes.
Everyone hit le Surf hard and Le Surfing* harder.
In the AM snoring was the only sound to be heard.
But the days are long. Even with a sleep-in you manage to get two long sessions.
See the light. The blinding light.
Squinting through my eyepiece for silhouettes dancing across the wave face.
I miss being surfed out. Their first sip of beer is better than mine.
While i made this video some were at home, some were in Ibiza.
I came back to Hossegor without a surf in weeks. Injury free. Hunting for barrels.
Staying with hornets from home. I had no one to surf with. No one to shoot.
But clips aren’t everything. I got my fix. One for the memory banks.
*Le Surfing (The Surfing) is a local Bar in Estagnots. Great place to wind down after a long days surfing.
Pics by spewblog.tumblr.com and Ben Maddox